Updated: Apr 11, 2022
Discover the secret amber material that makes Fallen so deliciously tempting. Learn the perfumers secret to creating a long lasting fizzing effect in this dewy green apple fragrance.
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Welcome to the LabHouse Perfume blog post. Here you will find detailed write-ups on the subscription box of this month. Without further ado, lets dive right into the fresh details of Box #0003. As a quick reminder, each box contains 2 perfumes and an evaluation sample of this month's featured raw material. The (-) perfume is formulated without said material and the (+) perfume features it. Now would be a good time to dip a small amount of the evaluation sample onto your blotter, have a sniff, and follow along!
The featured raw material of the month is Amber Xtreme, a high impact molecule produced by International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). The peculiar nature of this material is its ability to lend a "sparkling" sensation to fragrances while having a minimal impact on the overall odor profile. Metaphorically speaking, we can view this material as the salt in a dish; it enhances the "flavor" without changing the character.
When comparing the (+) fragrance to the (-), I would recommend looking for a change in "texture" rather than character. I find that the (+) comes across as more crisp and sharp than the (-). The differences between the two fragrances is especially obvious in the dry down, so it's a good idea to spray one on each wrist and compare them throughout the day to really experience the awesome effects of the amber.
Amber VS Amber
Amber Xtreme is categorized as a "woody amber" material. Bear with me here, as the definition of "amber" in the perfume world is a bit obscure...
The word "amber" has been historically used in perfumery to refer to accords built around vanilla and resinous materials like benzoin and labdanum. When we use the term "woody amber" we are referring to the more modern definition of sparkling woody materials. Here are some materials that fall into said category:
Ambrocenide, Karmawood, Karanal, Dextramber, Norlimbanol, Okoumal, Cedramber, Trisamber, Amber Xtreme, Trimofix...and so many more!
Unfortunately, this distinction is not always made in the marketing of fragranced products, so don't be surprised if you notice some inconsistency.
A fun little fact for you: This molecule was originally discovered in 2001 by some brilliant scientists at IFF. In the process of modifying the structure of galbanum molecules, they discovered a novel means of producing an amber note. Check out what they have to say in the link below:
From 2001-2015, the material remained "captive" meaning that they had the exclusive rights to use it in their fragrances. Why is that important? Think of a captive molecule as the "special sauce" that no one can imitate. This allows perfumers to create unique fragrance profiles that cannot be imitated by competing companies. Most of the large multinational fragrance houses utilize their own captive materials, which are protected by patents often lasting 20 years. After the 20 years is up, it is typical for other manufacturers to start producing/formulating with the material.
Amber Xtreme can provide a boosting effect at levels less than 0.1%, but we have exaggerated its effect by using this powerhouse at 1% in our rebellious fragrance, Fallen... Let's talk about that!
Notes: Green Apple, Star Jasmine, Dewy Rose, Lily of the Valley, Lemon, Celery Seed, Cedar, Patchouli, Woody Amber, Sandalwood, Cashmere Wood.
When formulating this fragrance I imagined the Garden of Eden, and the moment that Eve bit into the crisp forbidden apple. This biblical story of Adam and Eve is referred to as "The Fall" which inspired the name of this month's fragrance: Fallen.
With juicy top notes and an explosive amber, we hoped to invoke the sensation of crunching into a tart green apple. The green apple accord in this fragrance is boosted by Amber Xtreme and surrounded by a dewy rose garden that fades into a sweet metallic musk. I find that the green apple and clean metallic muguet (lily of the valley) materials in this fragrance give it a fresh out-of-the-shower vibe on skin.
So now that you have trained your nose to identify Amber Xtreme and its effect(s) in perfumery, what do you think?
Feel free to share any questions or comments you have on Box#0003, I would love to hear your thoughts! As always, thank you for subscribing. I work very hard to make this subscription as fun, engaging, and educational as possible, but I am always seeking suggestions for improvement.
If you like what this raw material has to offer, I do suggest sniffing the perfumes listed below:
Paco Rabanne Invictus
Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume Superdose
Montale Dark Purple
Dolce & Gabanna Light Blue Eau Intense
Nasomatto Black Afgano
Versace Man Eau Fraiche
Carolina Herrera Good Girl